We had wanted to spend some time floating the Buffalo National River this spring, but our trip to the Big Island of Hawaii took up a big chunk of the best floating time (not that I’m complaining!). With summer on us, we knew that the upper Buffalo would soon be unfloatable so we headed our truck camper (Max) and Jeep (Sandy) toward Jasper, Arkansas with the thought of going downriver just enough to find acceptable water depths. When we arrived, the Ponca low water bridge showed 27″ of air space and the USGS monitor reported 2 feet of depth at Ponca, not enough to float. We drove downriver to Kyle’s landing to view the situation, only to find very shallow water there also. With these developments, we decided that floating from Carver to Mt. Hersey and then on to Woolum was probably our best bet, unless predicted rains materialized overnight. With the possibility of flash floods along the river if rains came, we opted not to camp at Kyle’s Landing or elsewhere along the river, but moved to a campground in Jasper, with the added benefit of now having electricity, running water, restrooms, etc.
Cousin Lisa and our friend LR arrived late that night at our campsite, our relatives Janet and Steve opted for a motel in town, and we all went to sleep with visions of kayaking the next morning. However, at about 1AM, a line of severe thunderstorms moved through with almost constant lightning and rain. We were snug in our camper, but our chances of floating in the morning were rapidly disappearing. We awoke to a beautiful day and immediately checked the USGS gauge levels. The river had risen to 5+’ and there was zero air space at the Ponca low water bridge. Only the most experienced paddlers were being advised to enter the river. We knew that the water levels would drop quickly and that there was a good chance we could float the next day. Just to see the overnight difference in river conditions, we drove to Ponca and Kyle’s Landing once again. The banks were swollen and current very swift in both locations.
There seemed to be a custom at Kyle’s Landing of throwing one’s shoes up into the trees at the take-out point.
Although hopeful for our chances tomorrow, seeing these goats on top of a shed did not seem to be a good omen. Perhaps they knew more rain was on the way!
In lieu of paddling, we decided to visit Twin Falls, often called Triple Falls after a rain, because of the triple streams of water gushing over the bluff.
We ate lunch at the Low Gap Cafe, recently opened on Highway 74 between Jasper and Ponca, that had received great reviews on Trip Advisor. We agreed as our sandwiches, catfish, portabello mushroom, etc. were excellent.
While some of our party went back to the campground/motel for a nap, Cousin Lisa, LR, and I ventured on to the Glory Hole, a water oddity for sure. The Glory Hole consists of a perfectly formed hole about four feet across that penetrates through the top of a bluff that has a substantial overhang underneath. Water flows down a small creek, enters into the hole and exits below into a pool. It only runs after a rain, so this was a great chance to check it out.
This would be a great place for a refreshing shower!
Cousin Lisa had a blast exploring the bluff area. In the winter, the water stream sometimes freezes solid into a large column of ice.
One could go behind the water stream and look out at the woods beyond.
Back up top, the small stream was a perfect spot for LR to cool her tootsies!
The Glory Hole is about 6 miles north of Fallsville, Arkansas. The round trip hike is about 2 miles, most of it down a Jeep road that gets progressively smaller until it turns into a trail. If I hadn’t had kayaks on top, I would have ventured most of the way in Sandy.
On the way back to Jasper, Cousin Lisa and I caught a couple photos of a very young deer fawn. He/she first tried to hide in some grass and then bolted across the road, cleared the guardrail with ease, and rejoined momma. What a joy to witness this new life.
We ate dinner at the Ozark Cafe, a Jasper landmark, right on the square. Everything was tasty and a great way to end the day. Again we went to sleep hoping for minimal rain but were awakened at 2AM by an even worse thunderstorm than the previous night, with about double the rainfall. The goats were right!!! It became obvious quickly that there would be no kayaking this day, either. At daybreak I checked the USGS levels which were almost seven feet and rising, about two feet greater than the day before, and five feet higher than when we arrived. Water flow was now 3000 cubic feet/second versus about 50 before the two rainstorms. We drove over to Ponca to survey the situation and found the water flowing over the low water bridge with a couple of uprooted trees stuck on top of the bridge. Submerged logs in the river are a real hazard for floaters and we were told the river was going to be closed. Unfortunately, a ways downstream near Erbie, a 28 year old man drowned after diving into the river and never surfacing. On the Ouachita River in southwestern Arkansas, where we floated a few days ago, the water level rose from 6-7′ (when we were there) to 20′, which was almost unbelievable. Farther west from Hot Springs, a game warden and a sheriff both drowned on the Fourche La Fave River near Y City, while trying to help at-risk residents. Obviously, swollen rivers are not to be taken lightly.
Below is a shot of water gushing over the Ponca low water bridge.
For this day’s adventure, we chose to hike the Lost Valley Trail which begins in Boxley Valley and features several nice waterfalls. On our way to the trailhead, we saw a male elk and a little baby elk crossing the highway, with momma still inside the fence about to jump over to join them. None of us had ever seen a baby elk before, and were understandably excited. Great pic Cousin Lisa.
There used to be a nice bridge across the creek at the beginning of the Lost Valley Trail, but this was ripped out by a flood a couple of years ago, so we hoofed it through the water. Kinda reminds me of the Abbey Road album graphic.
With the overnight rains, impromptu waterfalls were sprouting from the tops of the bluffs.
Natural Bridge is an interesting waterfall that pours out of an opening that passes through the bluff to the upstream side of the creek, behind where I am standing. I did not make the journey through this time, but have in the past.
Cousin Lisa bet me a quarter that I wouldn’t venture across the creek and climb to the top of the jumble of rocks shown in the next photo. Guess I showed her! Now where’s that quarter?? Marcia remarked that it mainly seemed to be 10-12 year old boys and me that were scrambling over these rocks. Wonder what she meant by that?
The next major waterfall on this trail is Eden Falls. Last time we were here, a guy was rappelling down the front of the waterfall.
While others in our party took a break, Cousin Lisa, LR, and I went ever higher up the trail to Eden Falls Cave, from whence the falls emanates.
To explore the cave, one has to jump over the water stream (shown above) just inside the entrance, which can be intimidating since a fall could be disastrous. Flashlights are a necessity and we didn’t think to bring any, so I just took a picture into the cave where you can see the lights of others as they begin their trek. A ways inside is another waterfall. Maybe next time!
On the way back to the trailhead we took the “high road” versus down by the creek. A little side trail led to this gorgeous waterfall.
We returned to our campsite tired but elated at what we had experienced. Marcia and LR cooked a great dinner and Steve built a majestic campfire which lasted until about midnight.
No storms this night, which resulted in more sleep but less excitement. After breakfast the next morning, we all headed for home.
Truly “a good time was had by all”. I hope you had some adventures this weekend too.
